Throughout my years I had lived in a number of different areas within Australia, but I had never been to what is known as
Far North Queensland. The State of Queensland is basically split into two by the Tropic of Capricorn, which passes
through the coastal city of Rockhampton, about half way between Brisbane in the South East and Cairns on the North coast.
West of Cairns, and over the Great Dividing Range is an area known as the Atherton Tablelands. This is an
extremely fertile area and many crops are grown within this location. Beyond Cairns to the North is Cape York
Peninsula, still a large area of open countryside which is mainly utilised for cattle stations (Ranches), although there
are large deposits of Bauxite found at Weipa near the Northern tip of Cape York. If any area of Australia is
different from the rest then it is Far North Queensland. For a number of years there has been a move to declare that
part a separate State in its own right, but that idea has never really met with a great deal of success. In early
1986, I was told that I was being transferred to Far North Queensland, a move that I looked forward to with much anticipation.
It did not take me long to really find a special feeling for the area, and it really is one of my favourite parts of
Australia. The climate is tropical, and they really only have two seasons. A dry season (from about May to
October) and a wet season (from about November to April). The area is also prone to Cyclones (Hurricanes or Typhoons
in other parts of the world), and occasionally these create much damage. However, as much of the area is
basically uninhabited, many of these Cyclones cross the coast and do little damage to personal property. However they
do bring great amounts of rain and I can clearly recall one day when we had 600 millimetres (24 inches) of rain in one
24 hour period. At times like this, the rivers would flood very quickly and it was not uncommon for travellers to be
stranded for considerable periods. The road North into Cape York is not yet sealed, although I believe that the
road from Cairns to Cooktown is now finished, although when I lived there it was only sealed for about one third of the trip.
A trip to Australia's Northern most point is an adventure in itself.
I think it is correct to say that if I did not need to live in a city, close to the various specialists I need to see on a
regular basis, I would always have remained in Far North Queensland.
Where it all began. This is where I lived and worked during my time in Far North Queensland. (North West of
Cairns) The photograph on the left shows the local hotel and the one on the right the Police Station that was my
workplace. I lived next door to the Police Station and can only say that my time there was a truly wonderful one.
Many times, because the area that I was required to patrol, I utilised the services of one of the State Government
helicopters. The photograph on the left shows the helicopter in the Police Station yard and the one on the right
shows it taking off yet again. I used to keep a fuel supply for the helicopter at the Police Station. The pilot
and the crewman were both Vietnam Veterans and extremely experienced in their tasks so I never had any fears flying with
them. Over the time I was there we located a number of illegal marijuana plantations and also carried out a number
of rescue missions. The use of a helicopter certainly made my job a lot easier.
The countryside is surrounded by rain forest, much of which is now National Park and also World Heritage listed for
continued protection. In places the forest is so thick that it is impossible to see more than a metre (3 feet) in
front of you. To say it is pretty is an understatement. It is something you really have to see to appreciate
the beauty of. The photograph on the left was taken not far from where I lived and shows some of the forest with a
waterhole. The one on the right is another photograph of typical rain forest. The area is perpetually green and
in some places the tree covering is so thick that sunlight does not shine through. If you ever visit this area, do
not go bush walking in the rainforest unless you remain on marked trails. If you don't you almost certainly will be
lost within minutes.
Some 80 kilometres (50 miles) South of where I lived was a very famous tourist attraction, known as the "Curtain Fig
Tree". (Photographs above) In fact it is a tree that has been taken over by a parasite vine. The
vine grows up the tree, and lets its' roots drop towards the ground. There are a number of these throughout the rain
forest, but this is one of the largest. The rain forests are also filled with many tropical ferns and orchids.
Some of the more common ones are the "Staghorn" and the "Elkhorn". Orchids include the "Black
Orchid", "Spider Orchid", "Cooktown Orchid" and the "King Orchid". To see them in a natural surrounding
is really a sight to behold.
Inland from the coast and away from the highlands and rainforest are the plateaus that form the catchment areas on the many
rivers. What I think is Australia's second largest river system is located in this area. The Mitchell River
begins on the Western side of the highlands, and flows Westwards to the sea into the Gulf Of Carpentaria. Some of
its' tributaries are "Little Mitchell River", McLeod River", St George River, and the Palmer River (More
about Palmer River later). Most of the area is used for cattle grazing. Above are two photographs of the
Mitchell River catchment area, taken from the top of the ranges, before descending into the lower country below.
These photographs are between the main Mitchell River in the South and the Palmer River in the North. As they both
flow West, the Palmer River meets and joins the Mitchell River.
The Palmer River was the scene of a great gold rush in the later 19th century and millions of dollars worth of gold was
taken from this area. The person who first found gold on the Palmer River, (James Venture Mulligan) actually once
owned the Mount Molloy hotel pictured above and was killed during a fight at that hotel in the early 20th century.
He is buried in the town where I lived. Once gold was found in the area, tens of thousands of people
flocked to the area seeking their fortunes. The above three photographs show the Palmer River during the "Dry
Season". When the heavy rains come throughout the "Wet Season" the river rapidly rises in depth and
can go from what you see to over 12 metres (40 feet) deep overnight. The rains fall in the highlands to the East and
they move along the river at a rapid pace. The road I am driving on is the "main road" in the area, and
immediately on crossing the river it climbs uphill very steeply about 18 to 25 metres (60 to 80 feet), and you enter the
old gold mining township of Maytown.
Maytown (which was formerly called Edwardstown) became the main town for the gold rush, although there were other smaller
towns along the river. At one time Maytown was the second largest town in Queensland, though all that remains today
is very little. The photographs above show Maytown as it is now. The first photograph shows the original town
plan, the second an intersection with the street sign still standing and the third just one of the streets in the now
abandoned area. Note the slate kerbing which was all hand laid during the building of the town. The only other
things that remain are the foundation stumps of the original Courthouse, and about half of the baker's oven. A local
historical society has taken the time to place a brass plague in the kerbing, showing what was in that location when
Maytown was in its prime. In 1988, during Australia's Bi-Centennial celebrations, a ride (on horseback) was organised
to trace again the routes taken originally to the port of Cooktown. I was invited to join, but I declined and now
often wish I had accepted that invitation. A seven day ride through that area would have been a real experience.
Although the main gold rush petered out in the later 19th century, Maytown continued to exist and the Post Office was
closed in 1945. One hardy old miner by the name of Sam Elliot, remained and he was the last of the Maytown gold miners.
He died in 1986, and was buried at the Maytown cemetery, a place he had called home for his entire life. That
is one photograph I do not have. A high vantage point from which you can view the surrounding area has been named
"Sam Elliot Lookout" in his honour.
Living conditions of course were very primitive and during one "Wet Season", supplies could not be taken to the
town because the route was simply impassable. Many people died from malnutrition and disease, and although some
became very wealthy, many worked hard for little or no return. Ovens like the ones shown above were commonly used to
bake in although most have since been destroyed. These two have been preserved and it is hoped they will be maintained
for future generations to see just how their forefathers lived. These ovens were made from packed earth.
North of where I lived is the town of Cooktown. Cooktown of course is the location where Lieutenant James Cook made
his unscheduled stop during his voyage of discovery in 1770. The picture above is of a road side stop (Taken from the
air) which is situated where the Palmer River crosses the main road North. (The line of trees on the left side of the
Photograph show the location of the Palmer River) Further North you reach an area known as Lakelands. Lakelands is another very
rich area for cultivation and there has been a large increase of crops grown in this area. At this point you continue
East towards Cooktown, or turn North towards Australia's Northern tip. A trip along the Peninsula Development Road
(North) should not be undertaken without careful planning and a four wheel drive vehicle is recommended. I have travelled
some way up that road, but have no photographs of those travels. I have however travelled to Cooktown.
As you approach Cooktown, you see on your left a large hill which is known as "Black Mountain". (Above)
This area is known for many legends of unexplained disappearances of men and animals, and is both sacred and taboo to the
original Australians.
The above Photograph is one of the Endeavour River taken quite some way inland from Cooktown, and I would not normally
recommend swimming in the waterways of North Queensland as they are the natural habitat of the very dangerous salt water crocodile.
Cooktown itself was in its heyday an extremely large place as it was the main port and supply point for the Palmer River
goldfields. It came probably only third behind Brisbane and Maytown in size as a city in the State of Queensland.
It had all the glamour of a thriving town, with a tent city, a Chinatown, Opium Dens, numerous hotels and so much more.
Stories abounded of those who had really struck it rich on the goldfields having their horses shoed with golden
horseshoes, although I cannot verify that statement. Of course there were also those that wished to relieve the
miners of their hard earned money and gold, so many women travelled to Cooktown during those years. Again there are
stories of men who had left their families behind in another part of Australia to seek their fortunes, only to squander it
in Cooktown instead of returning home. Such is the way that mining towns and those towns dependant on them have
always been. Many of the old buildings are still standing, although most are no longer used for their original
construction. Banks especially built very ornate buildings, and as in many of those earlier towns the construction
of those buildings is a real tribute to those who did the work. Unfortunately I do not have many Photographs of
Cooktown, but will display the ones I do have.
The Photograph above is of a statue of Captain James Cook (He had been promoted from Lieutenant to Captain) and it
stands near where he went ashore in 1770. The old tree stump that he tied his barque "Endeavour" to during
the time it was repaired is also still there.
The two Photographs above are of the Cooktown James Cook Historical Museum. It is without doubt probably the best
museum I have seen outside a capital city anywhere in Australia. Contained within the museum are many items of great
interest to Australians, especially about Cook and his voyage in 1770. Also within the museum is the original anchor
and one of the cannon from the original "Endeavour", which Cook was forced to throw overboard in order to lighten
his ship so he could sail it to a place for repairs. These items (and others) have since been recovered and are an
important part of Australia's history. The building that houses the Cooktown James Cook Historical Museum was
originally a boarding school for girls, built by Irish Nuns. It eventually closed and the Nun's moved to another North
Queensland town to run another boarding school which still exists today.
The old school was converted into a Museum, in the late 1960's and was officially opened by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II
in 1970 during the two hundredth anniversary of Captain James Cook voyage of discovery of the East Coast of Australia.
Today Cooktown is basically the centre of the local area with the local shire council covering much of Cape York. It
also has much more modern facilities, and tourism is a major contributor to the local economy with daily services by
catamaran from the internationally famous resort of Port Douglas.
For visitors to Australia, a trip to Cooktown is recommended. It was after all the place where Europeans first spent
any length of time on Australian mainland and therefore a very important part of our history.
Without doubt Far North Queensland really is a place one should visit.
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